More than 95 shows are expected this week-end here. Strangely enough, Yohji Yamamoto and Martin Margiela opened 12 hours before the official opening (they were not pleased with their slot). Everybody is confused anyway, since generally Paris is not the closing city, it's a strange year.

The big players, by order of appearance from today: Christian Dior, Issey Miyake by Noaki Nakasawa, Torrente,Emanuel Ungaro, Helmut Lang, Guy Laroche, Dries Van Noten, Hussein Chalayan, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Yves Saint-Laurent Rive Gauche, Chanel, Kenzo, Louis Vuitton, Lanvin, Sonia Rykiel, Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney.

There's a strong presence of young creators this year (more than 130 shows). The whole festival will end October 11.

All the a-list models are already here. Their places are Hotel Costes (superstars), Hotel Beaumarchais (stars) and the models flats in the 16th arrondissement (b-list).